annealing questions from a novice

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alphalimafoxtrot
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annealing questions from a novice

Post by alphalimafoxtrot »

Hey there, Lee Team!

I've been a recent draftee to this great site, I came over here from Michael's Rossi Rifleman site once I knew I was headed into reloading.
For the rifles I collect and shoot in obsolete chamberings, several Model 8 and 81 Remington rifles and Model 14 and 141 rifles, I located a few Lee Loader "whack-a-mole" kits in .30Rem and .32Rem. Looking for .300 Savage and .35Rem next, but that's another tale. Also have a .357 kit for my Rossi 92 carbine and Ruger Security Six.

Now, on to my questions about annealing brass!

1. if I load "virgin" new-made brass, there is to be assumed it has been annealed by the factory, correct?
2. if I wish to reload any brass that has been fired - even once - from "virgin" status - will I have to anneal each time?
3. for old ammo, never fired, I wanted to get an idea of how many reloads can I accomplish after my first annealing of the old brass (after I fire this unfired old ammo) - ideas?
4. finally - many guys "make" converted cases for .30/.32Rem from Win .30-30 shells after turning off the rim and milling an extractor groove. Would the same rules about annealing apply to the modern cases - recent production, once-fired .30-30 Win?

Obviously, I am new to this hobby - thanks for your help!

FWIW, I don't have ANY "new" .30Rem or .32Rem ammo, but DO have some unfired NIB rounds which are what I'm talking about.
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by Ranch Dog »

I'm an "anneal" everything guy, except the loaded ammo of course, but there are others that have never anneal brass. Of course, we are talking about the old stuff and I think the loaded stuff is the most susceptible to having problems.

About 15 years ago I bought a Marlin chambered in 219 Zipper and with it, rounded up about 100 rounds of factory ammo. I sighted the rifle in and with that work I lost about half of the cases to various cracks, most very small stress lines. I took it out coyote hunting and lost a "give me" shot at close range and that case had separated the neck leaving it in the chamber.

I decided to pull all the ammo, dumped the powder (some of which had turned to jelly), and punched all the primers. I put the cases through the complete recycle treatment and they lasted at least 5 cycles. I even reused the bullets.

To more specifically answer your question, I would anneal all of the old stuff and anneal it on ever cycle. I would really watch the old ammunition, if you are loosing them to cracked cases, pull them all and start over. That's my advice.
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by alphalimafoxtrot »

Ranch Dog wrote: To more specifically answer your question, I would anneal all of the old stuff and anneal it on ever cycle. I would really watch the old ammunition, if you are loosing them to cracked cases, pull them all and start over. That's my advice.
Michael, that is what I was thinking - might be worth the extra effort for me to pull the bullets, dump the powder, punch out the primers and start new.

If I do this well, with a proper bullet-puller tool, can I reload those same old bullets into the "refreshed" cases?

thanks
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by alphalimafoxtrot »

I meant to ask for recommendations on basic, non-press type bullet pullers. Like those hammer/inertia style jobs, since I don't have a press.

Ideas?

Thanks!
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by daboone »

Look for the QUINETIC BULLET PULLER, it's a whack-a-mole type. It's collet doesn't require removal of the cap to remove the pulled bullet/powder or the case. That feature makes it faster and easier to do 1 or 101.

I'd also suggest you gather 5 to 10 scrap or cheap, easily replaceable cases to experiment on. I started with Tempilaq but quickly realize it wasn't necessary. It is not difficult to see the color change on the case just as it passes the case's neck in regular room lighting. But I guess I'm glad I bought the stuff anyway just to assure my confidence in annealing.

I built a simple stand for a battery powered 4 RPM motor. I attach a shellholder adapter to the shaft, thus whatever cases are being annealing I have the correct shellholder for the job.
Last edited by daboone on 13 Apr 2016 05:39, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by akuser47 »

I have a universal rcbs inertia hammer for pulling bullets. They work but I don't tend to disassemble rounds often. I think if your doing a lot you may want to get a press mounted round puller. If you only rarely do it then the hammer works its just time consuming. You have to take it apart after each separation so its messy and eats up time. I don't mind it as it's cheap and I rarely take rounds apart. +guns
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by Ohio3Wheels »

As Michael noted brass ages and with that come brittle and assorted cracks on firing. I've seen it with Korean war vintage 45 ACP and 30-06. I also had some late WWII 45 ACP fired in a tight chamber every one showed mouth splits on firing. I quit after the first magazine. I don't anneal short pistol cases (45, 9mm, 380) should probably anneal some of my 357 cases that have had 5 or 6 firings and when the 45 Colt brass reaches 5 firings or starts to show splits at the mouth I'll anneal them. With rifle cases some I do some I don't. The 45-70 and 40-65 get it every 4 firings with black powder and about every 3 with white powder. New or once fired 30-06 cases that are getting reformed to 6.5-06 get annealed before forming and every other firing after the initial fire form . 223 and 7.62x39 nope too much work for too little return.

With bass quenching gains nothing except cool cases that can be handled sooner and to a certain extent it keeps the head from migrating too far down the case toward the head. The cases that I anneal get decapped and cleaned wet with stainless pins, I use a couple different size sockets with a drill adapter to spin them with a small battery power drill, doesn't take long per case and I usually dump em a bucket of water because I want to dry them and get on with working and I don't like burns. it's sometimes surprising how long the brass stays warm.

I used to stand the cases in a shallow pan of water and tip them over when the temp change happened, worked okay and was the recommended method when I started in this game. Just had to avoid the domino effect ;) .

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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by Ranch Dog »

Okay, can't stand it. Got to show you my brass annealer! It is posted elsewhere on the forum.

[BBvideo 560,340][/BBvideo]
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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by Ohio3Wheels »

That is slick and I can see how you're able to anneal all the time every time.

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Re: annealing questions from a novice

Post by GasGuzzler »

Wow
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