Carbide sizer

[bluetick]

In Lee’s videos, they show a sizer die being installed. It’s
Screwed in until it makes contact with the shell holder. Then, with the ram slightly lowered, it’s screwed in a bit more. Does this assume it’s a steel die?

[Macd]

The carbide handgun dies are steel with a carbide center. The carbide provides a wear and scratch resistant surface. It does not require cases to be lubricated. They are adjusted the same as plain steel dies. The extra 1/2 turn is to take up any slack/flex in the press.

[horseman]

What Macd said, but 1/2 turn "extra" may be a bit much. The only time I add more than the shell holder/plate "touch" is when reloading bottleneck cases. Then it's a case by case, case...(yes that was intended)

It has also become habit for me to use a spray lube on handgun cases even when using a carbide die, which all mine are...just makes things easier.

[mikld]

Internet wisdom says adjusting the die with extra pressure (flush then down 1/4-1/2 turn) will crack the carbide ring when extra pressure is applied. With Lee dies I haven't ever had a problem with cracking the carbide ring when adjusting according to Lee's instructions. Haven't had that problem with the 2 other die manufacturers I have either...

[Ohio3Wheels]

With most all of my bottle-neck cases I've been using a method I found in the Sierra manual called "squaring the die". Briefly you run the ram up and bring the die in contact, run the lock ring down, but don't secure it yet, lower the ram and set a flat washer on the shell holder and run it up in contact with the die, tighten the lock ring and secure it. This removes any slack in the threads and if you use the same washer every time it should be repeatable. I load a lot of 6.5x55, I have 5 Swedish mausers and a Ljungman (sp). I have a choice of keeping cases sorted by rifle or sizing all the same and being able to use in any rifle. For the most part I choose being able to grab a box of loads and shoot what I wish. I'm probably sacrificing a little case life but I still get between 8 and ten loads. That's not counting the Ljungman which is a whole other kettle of fish. The only rifle I own that harder on cases is my SKS.

Makesmoke,

[bluetick]

With most all of my bottle-neck cases I've been using a method I found in the Sierra manual called "squaring the die". Briefly you run the ram up and bring the die in contact, run the lock ring down, but don't secure it yet, lower the ram and set a flat washer on the shell holder and run it up in contact with the die, tighten the lock ring and secure it. This removes any slack in the threads and if you use the same washer every time it should be repeatable. I load a lot of 6.5x55, I have 5 Swedish mausers and a Ljungman (sp). I have a choice of keeping cases sorted by rifle or sizing all the same and being able to use in any rifle. For the most part I choose being able to grab a box of loads and shoot what I wish. I'm probably sacrificing a little case life but I still get between 8 and ten loads. That's not counting the Ljungman which is a whole other kettle of fish. The only rifle I own that harder on cases is my SKS.

Makesmoke,

Interesting. I might try that.

[Ohio3Wheels]

I started doing it years ago when my wife and I were shooting in IHMSA competition and she had moved up to a Remington XP in 7mmBR and I was shooting a Contender in 6.5mmTCU. To this day I think a lot of the stuff I tried to improve accuracy had more a psychological effect than a physical effect but some of it has stuck with me even though I haven't shot a round in formal competition in twenty some years. Something worked, she was one good round away from Masters and I was shooting AAA when we hung things up for other interests.

Make smoke,