Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
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Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
New to forum, did some searches but could not find any info. Also new to Lee separate full and neck sizing only die concept.
I received a load of Lake City .308 Win (7.62) brass casings with NATO (circle +) head-stamp the other day. Definitely fired in a big chambered or machine gun as the case length is 2.025++ and width and shoulder size wise they are a beast to run through my lee single stage using the full length sizing die. I found it took a lot on stress off the press, and me, to first use the neck sizing die and then run the case through the full length die with the center neck sizing collet removed. Is breaking the sizing up into two steps going to cause any problems that I have missed.
I received a load of Lake City .308 Win (7.62) brass casings with NATO (circle +) head-stamp the other day. Definitely fired in a big chambered or machine gun as the case length is 2.025++ and width and shoulder size wise they are a beast to run through my lee single stage using the full length sizing die. I found it took a lot on stress off the press, and me, to first use the neck sizing die and then run the case through the full length die with the center neck sizing collet removed. Is breaking the sizing up into two steps going to cause any problems that I have missed.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
One method I use is:
1. Run the lubed case into the FL size die with decapper/expander removed.
This reduces the case neck and bumps the shoulder back, primer stays in.
2. Clean lube off the cases with cob in the vibratory cleaner.
3. Run the case into the neck sizing die to decap, plus expand and true the case neck.
It is now ready to proceeded with case prep or loading.
1. Run the lubed case into the FL size die with decapper/expander removed.
This reduces the case neck and bumps the shoulder back, primer stays in.
2. Clean lube off the cases with cob in the vibratory cleaner.
3. Run the case into the neck sizing die to decap, plus expand and true the case neck.
It is now ready to proceeded with case prep or loading.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
Herzlich willkommen from Germany!
You only need to recalibrate the cases once with that much set back, except you're using them in your own machine gun . If you use a single stage press I wouldn't bother too much... you only need to go through this once. The press will stand the load, and if not, LEE has a great customer service to get it fixed again.
Otherwise you better listen to Steve, instead of me... my experience in reloading rifle ammo is limited to .44-40, which doesn't really count... his experience is much more into the direction you need advice.
You only need to recalibrate the cases once with that much set back, except you're using them in your own machine gun . If you use a single stage press I wouldn't bother too much... you only need to go through this once. The press will stand the load, and if not, LEE has a great customer service to get it fixed again.
Otherwise you better listen to Steve, instead of me... my experience in reloading rifle ammo is limited to .44-40, which doesn't really count... his experience is much more into the direction you need advice.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
Thanks for the quick and helpful replies. I only have one .308 rifle so I size the shoulder length on 'new' casings a bit longer than over the counter ammo to fit snugger in my chamber. Once fired in my rifle then I only neck size the casings. Steve's method is what I ended up doing on the new stuff. I just did not feel right using full pressure of both hands stressing the press to what seemed it's limits. Also press handle up stroke (pulling the casing out) was harder than inserting the case. I have since watched a Lee casing preparation video and it showed adding a touch of lube to the inside of the neck. I was NOT doing that, and maybe that added to the cause of my grief.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
Welcome.
I think Steve is pretty much on .
Practically, if you're loading for 1 rifle , you will only need to full length the first time . After that depending on the rifle and the load you may be able to use just the neck sizing die as many as 10 cycles ..... or once .
The press should handle the load . You can also remove the decaping pin and turn the FL sizer out 2-3 turns run your brass lot then return it to the "correct" adjustment with the pin reinstalled and finish the FL sizing . This trick changes the leverage point of the sizing making it feel like less force is used . Either way or the way you are doing it work . I suspect that the collet neck sizer will serve you longer if you use it only after the brass is fired in your rifle .
I think Steve is pretty much on .
Practically, if you're loading for 1 rifle , you will only need to full length the first time . After that depending on the rifle and the load you may be able to use just the neck sizing die as many as 10 cycles ..... or once .
The press should handle the load . You can also remove the decaping pin and turn the FL sizer out 2-3 turns run your brass lot then return it to the "correct" adjustment with the pin reinstalled and finish the FL sizing . This trick changes the leverage point of the sizing making it feel like less force is used . Either way or the way you are doing it work . I suspect that the collet neck sizer will serve you longer if you use it only after the brass is fired in your rifle .
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
I do a lengthy process on milsurp brass. First I run them through a decapper to punch out the primers. Since they are almost always crimped in place I prefer to do this step alone because they can be a booger to get the primer out. Sometimes they even just warp the primer cup or just punch through instead of popping free so I don't need to miss that when I'm ready to load them. No way to miss that feeling when it's the only thing you are doing. That complete, there's still that nasty crimp in the case from the primer. I feel like Lee ignores milsurp processing in this but Dillon has had the Super Swage and now RCBS cloned it. Neither one is cheap but from what I've seen so far either one is the best option for this. I then run each piece over a primer pocket uniforming cutter and if they look like they need it a flash hole cutter. All this only has to be done once and with the right setup it's not as bad as it sounds. I then clean all that up in the tumbler to avoid brass shavings or grit in the full length sizing die. I favor Imperial sizing wax for full length sizing and having processed thousands of .223 cases the first can is finally starting to show some serious use. This stuff lasts forever since a little goes a long way. Roll the case between some waxed fingers and swipe a finger over the case mouth and into the sizer they go. Never had one stick, never had a case neck stretch out, and in general just flat out never had a problem with the stuff.
But a direct answer is the collet sizer has less friction since it's not full length sizing and thus is easier to direct more force on the primer. So you are sort of doing the same thing I am by decapping and then sizing the case.
But a direct answer is the collet sizer has less friction since it's not full length sizing and thus is easier to direct more force on the primer. So you are sort of doing the same thing I am by decapping and then sizing the case.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
I used to load for only one 223 rifle. I found after 4 or 5 firings the bolt closed so hard I had to FL size the cases again. Those were max loads in a 788 Remington, should have kept that rifle and had it rebarreld.carnut wrote:Thanks for the quick and helpful replies. I only have one .308 rifle so I size the shoulder length on 'new' casings a bit longer than over the counter ammo to fit snugger in my chamber. Once fired in my rifle then I only neck size the casings.
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
Just picked up the .308 in October (decided to try out the Mossberg Patriot hunting model). I'm only on 2nd and 3rd reloads of some of the brass and have quite a few 1st timers waiting to test out. Still hunting for that "perfect' load . Also have played with Hodgdons H-4895 'light' 60%-80% loads (but not happy with accuracy).
I do random test my raw just fired brass in the rifle prior to sizing to see how they chamber, so far they are still doing OK, so I just neck size. But it's still early in the game. I'll post when and it they start to stretch out. By the way that LC NATO stuff won't even allow the bolt to close prior to sizing...
I do random test my raw just fired brass in the rifle prior to sizing to see how they chamber, so far they are still doing OK, so I just neck size. But it's still early in the game. I'll post when and it they start to stretch out. By the way that LC NATO stuff won't even allow the bolt to close prior to sizing...
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
I have wound up with my 223 bolt guns liking the loads that come the closest to fire breathing max. I like it! My brass don't.carnut wrote:Still hunting for that "perfect' load . Also have played with Hodgdons H-4895 'light' 60%-80% loads (but not happy with accuracy).
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Re: Can you split full length sizing into two steps.
I have a new to me .308 bolt gun and I purchased a lot of LC Nato brass for my reloads. So far I've had no problems F/L sizing with my RCBS dies in my Lee turret. Your method seems to work and I foresee no problems with it, but Steve's method sounds easier...