Dry Lube

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Steve
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Dry Lube

Post by Steve »

Has anybody came across a dry lube that stays better than "Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant"?
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by RBHarter »

I used to use a lot of dry graphite. I used dri-slide for a while also . With both I found that moisture and the end of season preservation turned it to sludge and goo. The result was that it had to all be cleaned out . I just gave it up and stick it out with light oil and let the Hopes ride .
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by Fyodor »

I do use graphite to lube the sizing and crimping dies and the case feeder ramp on the carriers of my pro1000. Apart from that I only use ball bearing grease, in very small quantity. That's nearly dry. But I found graphite to stain everything, so I avoid it where possible.
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by Poppop »

I've used graphite powder and Hornady spray/dry lube. I like the spray better because the graphite powder can spill past what you want to lube.
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by Steve »

Poppop wrote:I've used graphite powder and Hornady spray/dry lube. I like the spray better because the graphite powder can spill past what you want to lube.
I want to avoid the mess with graphite.
Does the Hornady lube effect powder if it is used on dies and powder measures?
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by Maximumbob54 »

I used to use Eezox. It goes on wet and then dries. It was amazing at corrosion control and cleaning but only so-so as a lube. It did at least seem to prevent build up of crud and most treated parts of steel simply wiped clean. The only reason I really stopped using it was the ex would moan about the odd smell. It doesn't stink but it's no #9. The smell had me try Frog Lube next that you apply as a thin film of paste and then heat the steel. You quickly figure out just how little you need to use and I've got to admit it works pretty much exactly alike as the Eezox. Once again it's a great corrosion control and cleans well while still preventing build up and easy wipe clean but also once again it seems to be ok but lackluster as a lube.
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by daboone »

I'm not sure what your using it on. I've used Mica for case necks. It works as well as graphite and doesn't stain everything black. But graphite won hands down in a side by side comparison on my grandson pinewood derby wheel/axle spinning experiment.

Moly dry lube is supposed to be ranked very high for mechanical equipment.

Here is some googled info on dry lubes: Dry Lubes
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by Poppop »

Steve wrote:
Poppop wrote:I've used graphite powder and Hornady spray/dry lube. I like the spray better because the graphite powder can spill past what you want to lube.
I want to avoid the mess with graphite.
Does the Hornady lube effect powder if it is used on dies and powder measures?
I did all dies except the powder charging die. You can use it to clean that die but be sure it's dried very well so as not to lump the powder.
I just got finished spraying the garage door hinges, rollers and tracks. Very quiet and smooth.
Hornady's dry lube may be to reloading and gun cleaning as Marvel Mystery Oil is to internal combustion engines
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Re: Dry Lube

Post by DaveInGA »

Here are a couple dry lubes I like:

Dupon Chain-Saver wax-based chain lube w/Teflon (This stuff comes in a spray can with straw. Apply, let dry and it's like the Hornady Spray lube on steroids.)

White Lightning Clean Ride Wax Lube for bike chains. (I apply this stuff on the case feeder section of the Loadmaster or any where else where oil-based lubes have been called for, but tend to be nasty, dirty, messy and less desireable. It comes as a shake it up squirt bottle. I shake it until it's fully mixed, then apply with a Q-tip cotton swab. Works great and cleans off with another wet application of same stuff soaked into a paper towel. Much cleaner than oil based lubes it replaced.)
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