I've used IMR SR4756 and AA#7 both very fine powders. Well the imr wasn't too bad but still leaked but the AA is leaking everywhere! It's come out the side of the metering stick every pull of the handle. Very annoying and throws accuracy off. It'll throw between 5.5-6.1 everytime. (From what I have it setup too now) Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this problem? It's about a week or two old and maybe seen 100 rounds IF THAT. I ran a full hopper through with the IMR powder. Help.
Also one more thing...the powder through expandin die...I tried putting the lee funnel in it and throwing powder through it that way.
I measured the powder before dumping it through and then took the shell out and weighed it. It was now where near what I originally weighted. I looked inside and noticed powder that getting stick in the top in the "powder through" proportion at the top. Anyone else have this problem?
LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
- Fyodor
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
How's the surface texture? Rough? Is it clean and dry? You might polish it with fine steel wool, or when it's already smooth use some graphite.
Leaks can happen with every powder thrower, especially when using fine ball powder.
Leaks can happen with every powder thrower, especially when using fine ball powder.
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
On all my powder handling equipment I wipe them down/clean with used fabric softner sheets. It works pretty good to stop powder from hanging up do to static as well as helps to remove any oil.
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
Hand lapping the Lee PPM: http://www.lee-loader.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=289
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
I agree with the lapping, using a fine lapping compound. That fine powder getting caught between the rotor and drum will make matters worse and scratch up the surfaces.
Welcome to the forum!
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- daboone
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
Yep, add some fine valve grinding compound to the cone area and give it a few or several twists till all the high/low spots disappear. Then I have cut and pasted the following quote from a friend's post on another site. It seem to be the best advice on putting it back together after lapping. Some of this you are probably aware of but.....
"....disassemble and wash it with warm soapy water ( dawn works great for this) this gets all the molding oils off of it , let dry for a bit even after towel drying to assure that nooks and crannies are dry , then take a used dryer sheet and wipe the hopper out , this cuts down static , then re-assemble the body , when doing so a lil powdered graphite on the cone is a wonderful lube but not needed , tighten the screw down until you can just barely move the action and then loosen just a wee bit for smoothness , if i recall right the destructions call for zero tolerance but with the cone that wont turn and too loose causes the problem you're having now of powder everywhere , smaller ball powders especially !!! ( tho those should and do meter like a dream ) now that you have the body back together make sure the hopper valve is closed and fill it with powder , , you can hold it in your hand for this , once full place it above the powder can and slowly open it to drain it back into the can , if you do this a couple few times it will help coat it with graphite from the powder , the above really helps but you also have to develop consistency when operating it ( ie; same throw every time ) some folks also knock/tap it either on the upstroke or downstroke , i do the latter to make sure it is empty , but the tap/knock also has to be consistent for best results , with ball powder mine is so repetitive that it's scary , ditto the super short cut sticks , large flakes and large sticks i always trickle to desired weight because these two usually do vary in weight"
"....disassemble and wash it with warm soapy water ( dawn works great for this) this gets all the molding oils off of it , let dry for a bit even after towel drying to assure that nooks and crannies are dry , then take a used dryer sheet and wipe the hopper out , this cuts down static , then re-assemble the body , when doing so a lil powdered graphite on the cone is a wonderful lube but not needed , tighten the screw down until you can just barely move the action and then loosen just a wee bit for smoothness , if i recall right the destructions call for zero tolerance but with the cone that wont turn and too loose causes the problem you're having now of powder everywhere , smaller ball powders especially !!! ( tho those should and do meter like a dream ) now that you have the body back together make sure the hopper valve is closed and fill it with powder , , you can hold it in your hand for this , once full place it above the powder can and slowly open it to drain it back into the can , if you do this a couple few times it will help coat it with graphite from the powder , the above really helps but you also have to develop consistency when operating it ( ie; same throw every time ) some folks also knock/tap it either on the upstroke or downstroke , i do the latter to make sure it is empty , but the tap/knock also has to be consistent for best results , with ball powder mine is so repetitive that it's scary , ditto the super short cut sticks , large flakes and large sticks i always trickle to desired weight because these two usually do vary in weight"
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Re: LEAKING PPM! Help!!!
Thanks for the insight to this leaking issue Gentlemen.
I have two Perfect Powder Measures and will add this "Fix" to my list of things to do.
I have two Perfect Powder Measures and will add this "Fix" to my list of things to do.
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