Changing my rotary tumbler wash solution a bit

[Ranch Dog]

I'm happy with the Turtle Zip Wax; it is doing a great job of cleaning and lubing the cases but with all the case processing I've been doing, I want to wash the cases before I handle them. Even before I deprime them.

I looked at short wash cycle using Dawn Ultra and De-Lead. They both perform well, but the D-Lead breaks down all the stuff on the cases to a liquid. In other words, Dawn leaves silt on the bottom of my pail that I have to wash out and D-Lead is just liquid. I'm concerned about getting rid of the liquid from the wash, I don't want it on my immediate yard or down the sewer as I have an anaerobic system that returns the treated waste liquid to a portion of my yard. I will continue to pay attention to the solid I see on the bottom of the pail, but I feel the D-Lead might be better. No doubt it cleans my hands quicker and better.



Now, after all the case prep I go ahead with a 30-minute tumble with the Turtle Zip Wash & Wax. The added plus is that all the case prep has not rubbed the wax off.

I'm using ½ ounce of each product. One ounce leaves too much suds.

[Fyodor]

I'd really consider depriming before wet tumbling. If you deprime first, even the primer pocket and flash hole will be cleaned, but if you deprime after tumbling, you might have a steel pin in the flash hole, which your decapping rod will have problems forcing through.

[Ranch Dog]

I'd really consider depriming before wet tumbling. If you deprime first, even the primer pocket and flash hole will be cleaned, but if you deprime after tumbling, you might have a steel pin in the flash hole, which your decapping rod will have problems forcing through.

Very true!

[bayou]

I also agree with Fyodor that decapping before wet tumbling is the way to go. Your flash holes will get tumbled clean as well.

Recently, I've been presoaking the cases with some detergent before wet tumbling. I find presoaking has the effect of significantly reducing tumbling time needed to get a brilliant finish on the brass.

Bayou

[larryw]

Have to agree with Fyodor & Bayou, deprime first, then everything is spotless.
Also agree with Bayou on th pre soak, it made a big difference to me.
I used semi shine solution, for just a couple minutes, just long enough to
empty the drum, couple minutes at the most. Makes a difference & tumble
Time was only 35 - 45 minutes. Spotless.. Hey, I had an extra 2 cents
I had to do something with

[barracudadave67]

I do the same, deprime first, primer pockets get nice , and clean. No more cleaning them with a little tool.
I have a dedicated Lee universal deprimeing die set up on a Lee C press. That's where I start my cleaning/ reloading process.
barracudadave67

[GasGuzzler]

How well does the media separator work? I have the RCBS separator designed to remove dry media from brass but I have nothing for the stainless pins or case from case.

I got the dual drum Harbor Freight unit today and I'm running 5.56X45 brass with no media for now. I'm trying to decide if the $15 for pins plus the cost of the separator is worth the cost and hassle.

The HB dual drum did these 155 cases in 75 minutes with no pins using store brand dish soap and a pinch of Lemi-Shine.

[Ohio3Wheels]

I'm thinking the separator will get the cases and pins separated, then it will be a mater of getting the pins out of the solution.

Merry Christmas and make smoke,

[GasGuzzler]

I'm myself not sold on paying $15 for a pound of media then buying a strainer or magnet kit. The liquid tumble way is so much faster even without media than the dry way ..... even with no special purchase other than the cheapo HF machine. I can't stop cleaning brass. Now I'm experimenting with adaptations y'all have tried.

I reduced the citric acid by a good bit because there's no need for a lot of it (by a lot I mean 1/4 TSP or so to a quart of liquid, didn't measure). The brass is so shiny it isn't needed by that amount. With the old ratio the best thing that happens is I waste Lemi-Shine, worst case is I get pink cases.....neither calls for that much.

After a chance to inspect them after dry or nearly dry I'm changing my rinse routine. I found spots. Spots mean they weren't clean all the way or they weren't rinsed well enough. Since the spots were not apparent to me when I first rinsed them I ASSume the latter. My rinse procedure was to merely run hot water over them a few times in the sink and set them out to dry under the halogen lights of my vent hood.

The change I made was to add the step of refilling the cylinders with hot water and a glob of Johnson's paste wax. I don't want to go out and buy Armorall "whatever" nor do I want to use the stash of Johnson's liquid floor wax I bought when I heard they were ceasing production. Capped the the cylinders and let them run another 30 minutes in the rinse cycle.

.....Fast forward.

I just pulled out some .22-250 (I don't own anything that uses this cartridge) and .38 Special (previously dry tumbled) after my additional rinse steps. I don't see a difference right out of the rinse. The rifle cases aren't de-capped so they don't drain as well. Yes.....I will Lee Universal De-cap them now so I can clean them AGAIN.

LOL

Anyone need .22-250 brass?

[barracudadave67]

Guzzler,and Wheels.
Lyman has a two tray separator set that works great for separating pins, and shells, once they are clean. I have one, and I use it to separate the pins, and shells. The cost was something around $20-25. I use it in conjunction with my Frankfurt Arsenal pin tumbler.

barracudadave67