Lee Loader

I own two myself and have found eBay to be the cheapest place to purchase the rings. Others work, I've tried but I feel better using foresters.

All I'm saying is when measuring TIR of the rifle cases tested the different lock rings made no difference or improvements. Any real difference in the TIR was due to irregularity in the case mouth not the lockrings.

It's here! It's here! Fed Ex dropped it off yesterday. First impression as I drug it outta the box, looks smaller than I imagined.

Set up was a breeze. I sat the press on the bench edge and looked at if for a while and figgered in may be more ergonomic if it was mounted on a slight angle. So, I mounted the press to a Rock Dock plate at about 30 degrees to my left. So far so good.

Included with the press are 2 Sinclair lock rings and I found a couple Pacific lock rings that are the same size as the Sinclair so I only set up a couple die sets. (The thickness doesn't seem to be critical as die movement will be the same every time the ram is lifted). I have a bunch of Lee, RCBS, and a few odd mfg. lock rings that all have flats, but I'll see if those work at a later date (concerned with strength with less contact with the frame).

Only "problem" I had was getting the priming shell holder jaws adjusted, it took three tries. Everything else so far has gone smoothly. At first I was thinking "my Lee turret is faster and easier", but after switching dies and processing a few cases I don't feel that way any more. When adjusting a new to me Lee collet crimp die I had to re flare a couple times and yanking out one die and shoving another on in was almost as fast as indexing a turret by hand.

So far I'm a happy camper!

Just a couple thoughts about lock rings and set screws. As a life long machinist/mechanic I've dealt with set screws and lock rings my whole career (55 years), and I've noticed 90% of the users tighten them down waaaaay too tight. A lock ring on a threaded piece/bolt is meant to only add pressure to the internal threads by pushing the piece upward (the ring screws down, applying pressure to the surface the piece/bolt is screwed into and wedged the internal threads upward to add friction to keep the piece from turning). No need to apply 1,485 foot pounds of torque to the lock ring with a 24" crescent wrench and a 4' cheater bar.

Set screws are the same, they just add friction to stop rotation. If one strips an allen socket, it's being tightened waaaay too tight or defective tools are being used (rounded corners on an allen wrench), even if the setscrews are brass. Snug is enough. If a setscrew loosens, degrease/clean the threads, internal and external, and it should stay snug. No need for being ham fisted or hiring a gorilla to tighten set screws.

I bought only 2 used die sets, both off ebay. The RCBS set was pretty much ruined by a ham fisted "user" tightening down the lock rings too much. The body threads were distorted and it was difficult to remove the lock ring, after spending almost an hour getting the set screws out. The set screw sockets were round, not hex, so I drilled and used an easyout to get the setscrews out. The die body threads, besides being distorted (looked like waves on the ocean) had indents mebbe 3/32" (.090") deep from the setscrews

I did fix them, no big deal for me maybe 'cause I like a challenge or just fixin' things. I was able to chase the threads on the die bodies and clean up a few areas with a thread file, and replaced the setscrews after retapping the holes.

OK fellers, rant over. Sorry. I just have a very low tolerance for "Primitive Petes" or Gorilla Wrenchers"...

I just looked at the Forster lock rings I have. All 4 I have bugger up and all 4 appear to be zink(?). All have phillipshead screw. Now I got my old used Bonanza some 8 years ago. Certainly the Sinclair lock rings are Allan set heads. I never considered myself Hamm handed but there is no question I seriously messed up the Forster rings screws. If any of you know what the length and thread size is I'll go to the local True Value and get replacements. TIA.
All the tightening I've done was to stop any twisting of the die by hand and maybe a smidge too much.

One more thought before going to bed, I suggest for anybody that has a iron press is magnets. They stick to the press and will hold useful tools use to make adjustments, Allen, torx wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. Keeps them handy because looking for then in the tool box interrupt my thought processes.

Just had to chuckle as I read this, Dan. Glanced at the magnet stuck to my RC with its collection of Allen wrenches.

Make smoke,

daboone wrote:. If any of you know what the length and thread size is I'll go to the local True Value and get replacements. TIA.
All the tightening I've done was to stop any twisting of the die by hand and maybe a smidge too much.

One more thought before going to bed, I suggest for anybody that has a iron press is magnets. They stick to the press and will hold useful tools use to make adjustments, Allen, torx wrenches, screwdrivers, etc. Keeps them handy because looking for then in the tool box interrupt my thought processes.

Dan I just checked the cap head screws in the new Forster rings. They are a 6x32 and 5/8 inch length. Good idea on the magnet for allen wrenches. I have them scattered all over the place (the wrenches ) I do have one of those 18inch long magnets from Harbor Freight screwed onto one end of my bench for "bigger" stuff like pliers (who doesn't need pliers on a reloading bench, talk about "bugger" stuff up ) vise grips and several other destructive devices.

The Heck with destructive vice grips. Heck I can do that damage with a screwdriver!

Thanks for screw dimensions. Now after I pick a few up I can put those lockrings back in service. I hope they have them with Allen heads. As that now I know I'm to dangerous to play with screwdrivers.

My LCT came home with me yesterday along with ALL the tools and supplies my partner had.

I'm going to have to pack up my reloader 90045 to make room.

FYI; https://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-tip-set-screws/=16etgjn cheap, easy way to prevent damage to threaded parts/dies...