Lee Loader

For larger numbers of brass I use the RCBS primer pocket swager followed by the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool to put a bevel on the opening of the primer pocket. For just a few I use a hand primer pocket reamer.

Same here. I previously posted the mods that make it work on my Challenger press.


https://www.lee-loader.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2235

Whatever type "reamer", "uniformer" you decide to go with I'd figure a way to use it with a power driver or drill (on slow speed). After doing about three cases with a "hand powered" unit you'll thank me for the suggestion. I have an RCBS crimped primer swaging tool that I don't even bother with anymore, just a primer pocket uniformer on a case prep system now. But I am going to purchase a pocket reamer PDQ also.

Well Fellas!
Military surplus crimped primers was the cause! Just finished approx. 125 mixed brass, (no WMA or crimped). No issues

Rog

Thank All of You muchly for your input !

Thanks for this thread. I was going along ok as a new reloader of 9MM luger and had the "occasional" non-fit, then after about 1000 or so rounds, my latest run was having primer seating issues (currently use Federal and SB) - and I know that Federal / Lee are not a recommended combination. After reading this tread, I checked the head stamps on my "fails" and low and behold, the majority are either WIN or IVI. I pulled those brands out and the other brass seats the primers like butter. I may try Swaging, but then, for the cost of a swager, I'll be farther ahead just spending the extra 1-2 seconds per load to check the headstamp inseead.

Welcome to the forum!

wstcstlad wrote:I may try Swaging, but then, for the cost of a swager, I'll be farther ahead just spending the extra 1-2 seconds per load to check the headstamp inseead.

Better than swaging is using a crimp remover to bevel the primer pocket mouth. I drill mounted tool can do it in seconds and it is a one time thing.

IVI is good brass. I have several thousand pieces in 9mm and 7.62. I use the RCBS swager in my single stage press. Some use pocket reamers or even the case mouth chamfering tool. I found the proper size countersink bit will also work but you have to be careful you don't take off too much material.

https://www.lee-loader.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2235

I just recently started loading for 9mm using range pickup brass. I found the problem with WMA brass really quick. Now I toss it in the scrap bin when I get them. They are easy to spot because there is not much writing on the head. And lately they have had red sealer on the primer too. What it did to mine was push the primer punch up through the die when I tried to deprime. So to the scrap they go. They are the only ones that cause a problem for me. Another one I see on the ground is the new two piece looks like stainless base and nickle sides. I saw an article in the magazines them bragging how it is a great case and can reload. I took some home and tried them. I pulled the lever and it full sized just great. But when I tried to remove it, the nickle sleeve tried to pull off of the base leaving a small gap between them. I figured they were pressed fit together. So I didn't even try to load it. I figured the pressed area was already deformed and didn't need a high power load to maybe send part of the case down the barrel. It went to trash can.

Ths biggest problem child brass I get is Aguila brass made in Mexico.
Even cutting the pockets with a uniformer & beveling the edge
Is a pain, I have never seen such hard brass.