Lee Loader

I've tried to be as imaginative as possible with searches on this site, but don't think this topic has been discussed. I've heard the arguments against the use of the carbide factory crimp die (CFCD) when using cast bullets, as you can negate the precision of your carefully crafted and sized bullets. That said, I do have this die for 38/357 and the crimp ring produces a roll-crimp - which I carefully adjust to just remove the case flare. I would like a taper crimp ring like all the CFCDs for autoloader calibres.
Now to the question: Since Lee doesn't make a taper crimp ring for the 38/357 die, should I buy a 9mm CFCD and use the crimp ring from that in the 38/357 die? The difference between the case mouth outside diameter between these two calibres is 1/1,000" or two, so I think it should work.
What do you think?

My latest Lee catalog shows a 357/38spl taper crimp die part #90781. I'm pretty certain that's the one I'm using I can't lay my hands on the die box right now.

Make smoke,

Thanks Ohio3wheels,
I do have the dedicated Lee 38/357 taper crimp die which you mentioned and it works fine, I also have an RCBS taper crimp die and an RCBS seat & taper crimp die - so I'm not stuck for a solution at all. My idea of a taper crimp ring in the carbide die is to give two advantages: the free floating crimp ring may centre more precisely on the case and the carbide sizer will iron out any bulge.

I'm not a fan of Lee FCDs for handguns. I have never had to "iron out" any handgun handloads in over 40 years of reloading, revolver or semi-auto. I punched out the carbide ring of one FCD but there was nothing special about the resulting crimp. Just wondering, why would you need a taper crimp on a 357 Mag? Plated bullets? My experience reloading for 7 revolvers and 9 semi-autos, I have found that revolver bullets w/crimp grooves work best with roll or profile crimps and semi-auto bullets, sans groove/cannelure work best with taper (deflaring) crimp...

Not judging, jes wonderin'...

Things are a lot different here in England, when handguns were banned here in 1997 (yes, banned altogether for legal civilian ownership), most keen pistol shooters eventually took up gallery rifle shooting with lever actions in pistol calibres. My Marlin 1894.357 has had 20k rounds through it and ALL were taper crimped. We generally shoot just subsonic and always with cast bullets. With the non-existent recoil from 4.5gn of TiteGroup there is no need for a roll crimp, as there's no likelihood of set-back in the tubular magazine. My cases last FOREVER - I'm a cheapskate too! I do all my 100yd+ shooting with my Remington 700 (308) and Howa 1500 (223).
I did get a friend out of a pickle last night at the club. He had seated a 158gn FRN which was Alox lubed but he'd forgotten to size it. The extra 2 thou meant it wouldn't chamber in his Marlin. I ran it through the CFCD and the excess girth was 'ironed out' and the round chambered and fired. An easier solution than trying to kinetically pull that extra-tight bullet!
My curiosity about the taper crimp ring for rimmed cases was just that, curiosity. I use my RCBS taper crimp die as a separate step 99.9% of the time.
I really enjoy this forum and read it often. Hang onto your Second Amendment rights, you folks!