First Cast C309-160R
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First Cast C309-160R
Well, completed my first cast this afternoon. Thanks for all the information posted here it was very helpful in my first effort. I was using a new C309-160R mold, with Rotometals Lyman #2. The mold was smoked then lubricated with Permatex never seize. In two and a half hours I cast 374 bullets, 72 of those are going back into the pot due to various defects. This worked out to a reject rate of 20%, does this seem on par with others experience? I dropped the bullets into cold water. Checking the dropped bullets with my calipers shows .313" on the outside of the widest bands, measured just below the ogive on the flat of the bullet body I get .305". Neither of these near the .309" does this seem normal? Perhaps I'm measuring from the wrong points, although now where can I get .309" on these bullets. Not to concerned as I do have a .309 push through size die. And maybe this maybe a good thing if the .309 proves less than prefered, I can try a .310 or .311 sizing die, thoughts?
During casting I seemed to have difficulty controlling the mold block's temperature, as at times the bullets would release upon opening the mold, others there was quite a bit of hammering required to release them. Most of my rejects seemed to be caused by bad technique, either start-stop pouring or too fast into one mold overflowing into the second, causing layering or incomplete fill out. I had trouble after the first couple hundred with the sprue cutter pivot bolt loosening, maybe a larger wave washer under it will cure this, anyone else experience this? I had quite a bit of trouble controlling flow, that seemed to smooth out as time went on, probably just started to relax a bit. The dam pot leaked which was annoying and somewhat distracting but after a fashion I managed to ignore this.
During casting I seemed to have difficulty controlling the mold block's temperature, as at times the bullets would release upon opening the mold, others there was quite a bit of hammering required to release them. Most of my rejects seemed to be caused by bad technique, either start-stop pouring or too fast into one mold overflowing into the second, causing layering or incomplete fill out. I had trouble after the first couple hundred with the sprue cutter pivot bolt loosening, maybe a larger wave washer under it will cure this, anyone else experience this? I had quite a bit of trouble controlling flow, that seemed to smooth out as time went on, probably just started to relax a bit. The dam pot leaked which was annoying and somewhat distracting but after a fashion I managed to ignore this.
- RBHarter
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
All in all it sounds like a pretty good 1st pour .
The 305 nose might be tough but the 313 will pay off . .001-.002 over groove dia is where yo need to be in the 1st inch of bbl .
The 305 nose might be tough but the 313 will pay off . .001-.002 over groove dia is where yo need to be in the 1st inch of bbl .
Just a Red neck,White boy, Blue blood American.....
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
Awesome first time. 20% is good and not sure I do much better. Now you get to lube 'em and then shoot 'em and that is just as much fun as cast 'em.
Je suis Charlie
- daboone
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
Like learning trigger control there is a learning curve as well as a rhythm that will become natural. The rhythm will cure some of your temp control. I find many Lee mold to be undersized for my needs. As I'm sure you know you will want yours to be about .01 or .02 larger than bore to reduce leading. Alox is your friend in that department. Lot of mixtures for it none require more than a slight coating.
I am sure RD or someone posted the how to fix the drip/leak. It's a simple job with some valve grinding compound on the tip of the rod and spinning it in the valve to smooth it out.
I am sure RD or someone posted the how to fix the drip/leak. It's a simple job with some valve grinding compound on the tip of the rod and spinning it in the valve to smooth it out.
An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out.
When setting a job up for myself it must be Idiot Proof as well, as I am a bigger idiot than most people I know, and I prove it to myself everyday.
When setting a job up for myself it must be Idiot Proof as well, as I am a bigger idiot than most people I know, and I prove it to myself everyday.
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
20% is a lot better than where I started. I was throwing half away.
One of my molds loosens the sprue cutter bolt AND the handle bolts AND the center pivot nut on the handles themselves. Just gotta check them once and a while.
One of my molds loosens the sprue cutter bolt AND the handle bolts AND the center pivot nut on the handles themselves. Just gotta check them once and a while.
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I've always been crazy but it's kept me from goin' insane.
I've always been crazy but it's kept me from goin' insane.
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
In my Henry 45 I am shooting hard cast sized to .454. It does not lead at 1020 fps using some kind of blue lube. I'm happy. If I can get the same results with my 40 S&W pistols some day it would be great.daboone wrote: I find many Lee mold to be undersized for my needs. As I'm sure you know you will want yours to be about .01 or .02 larger than bore to reduce leading. Alox is your friend in that department. Lot of mixtures for it none require more than a slight coating.
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
Cast bullet size largely depends on alloy, mold temperature and melt temperature. Plus method/casting speed will make a bit of difference in diameter. I would not worry about bullets not being .309", but dropping larger, as most of my 30 cal. bullets are sized to .310" anyway. Perhaps the .303" nose would work as a "bore rider"...
It is often said, "The only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets". Keep at it and mebbe keep a log on alloy, temperatures, methods, etc. Won't be long before you're keeping 90%+ of yer boolits...
It is often said, "The only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets". Keep at it and mebbe keep a log on alloy, temperatures, methods, etc. Won't be long before you're keeping 90%+ of yer boolits...
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
Thanks for the words of encouragement and advice, Its greatly appreciated. Gas checks are on the way, Ill get some loaded and report back.
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
I'm providing a correction to my original to my OP. I re-measured my initial cast bullets with a Starrett 436 outside micrometer and consistently found the bullets to be .310" to .309" just as represented by Lee. I didn't want someone to make a decision based upon inaccurate information. I cast another 200 bullets yesterday all measured consistently within that same size range. This session saw only one wrinkled nose, and it not bad enough to toss.
I had originally measured with a pair of Mitutoyo digital calipers which to date have proven reliable, but they consistently measured the bullets at .3115", even factory jacketed rounds measured the same .3115". The micrometer indicated the jacketed bullets were spot on the advertised .308". Strange thing is I measured some 9mm Berry's plated rounds sold as .356" and the calipers nailed them exactly, so did the micrometer.
I had originally measured with a pair of Mitutoyo digital calipers which to date have proven reliable, but they consistently measured the bullets at .3115", even factory jacketed rounds measured the same .3115". The micrometer indicated the jacketed bullets were spot on the advertised .308". Strange thing is I measured some 9mm Berry's plated rounds sold as .356" and the calipers nailed them exactly, so did the micrometer.
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Re: First Cast C309-160R
Interesting and thanks for correction. Personally, I moved away from the digital stuff and gone back to mechanical tools because of issues like you mentioned.
Michael
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